Stormwater

Stormwater - What is it 

Stormwater is a drainage systems used to collect and transfer rainwater to either storage areas for later use ( ie rainwater tanks )  or directed to the street by the use of PVC pipes.  

In Residential and Commercial flow of the rainwater is typically off roofs, down drainpipes, through drainage pipes, into underground pipes or other drainage systems and eventually into mains stormwater discharge drains. Some houses also make use of storage systems like rainwater tanks - these are particularly useful and common in rural areas where access to the main water supply network is limited, or where water restrictions are in place.

Gravity fed systems - Drainage pipes are strategically positioned and angled so that the stormwater's fed down through to the drainage system using the pull of gravity. The sizes of the pipes will depend on how large an area rain is being collected from, and how intense the rain gets in your region.

Pump-based systems - Pumps might be necessary when your land doesn't provide a sufficient slope to allow gravity to do the job alone. Pumps are also often used in systems that incorporate rainwater tanks.

Stormwater discharge and harvesting - Large stormwater pipes and channels in populated areas transport stormwater directly into rivers, lakes (sometimes man-made) and into the sea.

It's becoming increasingly common to collect rain water for re-use - either in the garden, or treated for domestic use. Water restrictions in recent years, and a general push towards sustainability and self-sufficiency have led to a big increase in the number of people installing domestic tank systems, even if only to water their plants with.

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Exacavtion 

Site Preparation ( excavation )

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‘Site works’ describes the work required on your building site to prepare it for your home to be built, as well as the ongoing management of the building site. In effect, it’s all the work that’s carried out on the site that doesn’t directly involve putting up your house.

Good, effective site works are essential not just to ensuring that the build process runs along smoothly, but also to guarantee that you’ll have a house that’s well built, stable and secure.

The second aspect of siteworks is the work that needs to be done on the building site to ensure that your home can be built properly, that it’s built in the right place, and that it will be stable and secure.

This part of the process includes:

demolishing any existing structures (which also includes cutting off existing electricity or water supply and drainage services, protecting adjoining properties and removing waste)

testing the soil and structural engineering assessments

clearing the land

stump removal and grubbing

termiticides and other soil treatments

levelling or grading

cutting and filling the land

installing retaining walls if they’re needed

surveying and setting out where buildings will go

connecting water supplies, drainage and other necessary services

Preparing trenches for slab subfloors, or holes for pilings or stumps

Fencing and Retaining Walls 

• In terms of fencing and neighbouring properties, there are two basic types — a dividing fence and a boundary fence. A dividing fence is typically a fence that separates two privately owned properties, and is constructed along the common boundary line between the two. However, it can also be built off the boundary line when the land’s physical features prevent it (which makes the fence owned by whoever’s land it’s built in). The term doesn’t include a fence running along the boundary of a road — this is known as a boundary fence.

•  Retaining walls are built to support excavated or built-up earth. They are normally not a matter of joint responsibility for neighbours as they usually benefit one neighbour more than the other

• A dividing fence isn’t just a line of wire, panels or posts either – it is anything that encloses an area of land, including a hedge, ditch, an embankment and even a creek, and it doesn’t have to extend along the entire boundary. It also includes cattle grids, gates or anything else that forms part of the enclosure

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• If a dividing fence is built on the common boundary line, it is equally owned by both adjoining neighbours. However, a fence or part of a fence built on one neighbour’s land is owned by that neighbour, even if the other neighbour helped pay for the fence. So if you are paying for half the cost of a fence, you should ensure it is built on the actual boundary line.

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• There should be a “sufficient” dividing fence between properties if an adjoining owner requests one, regardless of whether one or both pieces of land are empty.a “sufficient” dividing fence is between 0.5 and 1.8 metres high and is constructed of a “prescribed material,” including:

• Wood, including timber palings and lattice panels

• Chain wire

• Metal panels or rods

• Bricks

• Rendered cement

• Concrete blocks

• A hedge or other barrier made from vegetation

• Other material that fences are ordinarily constructed from.

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• If you are looking to build a dividing fence between your property and your neighbour’s, you need to give them what is called a “notice to fence.” This is a letter that should include details about the fence, how it will be built, and how much it will cost (including their half-contribution). You are required to obtain at least one quote (out of courtesy, apply for two), and if your neighbour believes the quotes are too expensive, they have the right to obtain their own quotes.

• Neighbours usually contribute equally to the cost of building and maintaining a dividing fence. If issues arise, they usually need to be solved by the owners of both properties themselves. Rental tenants who have queries over dividing fences should contact their agent or property owner.

• If one neighbour wants more work done than is necessary in terms of the fence being “sufficient”, they must pay the additional cost. For example, if your neighbour needs a higher fence to keep their dog safely housed on their property, they should pay the additional cost of labour and materials to build the fence to a height that is outside of your own “sufficient” needs.

• Additionally, if an owner or someone they have allowed onto their property damages a fence (for example, people working on their property), they must restore the dividing fence to a reasonable standard. This includes taking into account the state of the fence before it was damaged. If they do not restore the fence, you can send them a notice to contribute for fencing work or get them to pay for urgent fencing work if necessary.

Concrete or Paving 

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Paved Driveways 

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First and foremost, the driveway needs to withstand the load of vehicles and provide easy access between the road and where the vehicle is stored. A driveway that will give way to the pressure of traffic can damage the property and car, and lead to increased maintenance costs; a driveway that makes it difficult to enter and exit the property can prove a daily hassle.

In addition to providing practical benefits, a driveway must be attractive to preserve the look and value of the property. After all, it does occupy a large portion of the property's frontage and plays a large role in forming people's impression of the house.

When considering the costs of installing a new driveway always factor in the ongoing maintenance costs. Some driveway materials are expensive to install, but require little by way of maintenance; others need ongoing maintenance to keep them looking their best.

Below you'll find articles on the materials most commonly used for driveways in Australia.

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What is a brick driveway?

A brick driveway is composed of brick or tiles made of a tough, fired material laid upon a substrate foundation – it’s all in name really!

What’s the best use?

Brickwork is ideal for matching or complementing any existing brickwork in your home.

Herringbone patterns are the best for creating a strong surface as they lack the straight lines (and thus weakness) of patterns like basket weave or stack bond.  

What maintenance is required?

Brick and paved driveways can be high maintenance, but they’ll reward you with an amazing appearance.

Weeding

There's no such thing as weed-proof paving. As soon as debris collects in the cracks and on the surface, weeds have a place to live. 

It really pays to keep on top of weeds, before they get a good foothold and spread their seeds, creating an even larger problem.

weeping

It’s easy for dirt to build up between the bricks or pavers, providing a place for plants to grow. Over time, it will also compact down and be harder to remove. Regular sweeping can help keep on top of this problem.

Cleaning

To further remove dirt and debris, an occasional scrub with soapy water is recommended. Avoid any acidic cleaners, as these can damage bricks and paving.

Use a brush with stiff bristles.    

What are the minimum and maximum grades?

A grade of at least 2:100 is recommended. Although these driveways may seem porous, the gaps between the bricks or pavers soon fill up with tyre rubber, grime, oil and other debris. The driveway will then act in a

non-porous manner, similar to an asphalt or concrete driveway, and needs a slope to ensure excess water drains away.

Pavers laid adjacent to drains will settle slightly over time, providing a place for water to pool. To avoid this problem, pavers should be laid about 6mm higher around drains and then fall away from these areas.

Bricks and pavers can be comfortably laid in gradients of up to 1:10. For steeper gradients, concrete can be used to maintain the structure of the driveway; a professional should be consulted on how this can be

achieved. 

How is it installed?

Choose bricks that will withstand your local weather conditions. Frost-prone areas will need frost-proof pavers, while those need the sea will need pavers that can withstand salt damage.

Bricks and pavers are generally installed in the following manner:  

Excavate 200-300mm    

Create a base with hardcore of at least 150mm      

Cover with fine gravel and level is off

Ensure good compaction with a vibrating plate or roller

Lay pavers/bricks over top and brush with fine sand

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Concrete Driveways 

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What is a concrete driveway? 

A concrete driveway is made of aggregate (stones and gravel) bonded together by cement. The aggregate used can vary in size and appearance.  

Concrete does have a bit of reputation of being drab, but its appearance can be livened up with the addition of coloured stones, concrete paint, or the application of stencils to create the appearance of pavers. 

What’s the best use? 

Concrete driveways are suitable for a wide range of applications, as the surface can be adapted for practical (i.e. different finishes for grip) and aesthetic needs (concrete can be finished in a number of colours or engraved). 

What maintenance is required? 

With a high quality installation, concrete needs very little maintenance. Ensure spills of oil, grease or petrol are removed as soon as possible to prevent stains forming and reseal the concrete every two years and your drive should look good for at least a decade, if not longer. 

What are the minimum and maximum grades?

To ensure water drains, concrete driveways should have a fall of at least one percent away from the house and towards the street. 

The grade should not exceed 1:4 within the property boundary. Note that in some areas, there are restrictions on how steep a driveway can be; be sure to check with your local council about these limitations. 

Do concrete driveways need steel reinforcing? 

Concrete driveways can be constructed without steel reinforcing, as it does not increase or decrease the load capacity – it merely prevents cracks widening should they occur. 

How is it installed? 

For non-reinforced concrete and standard passenger cars, concrete needs to be 100mm thick. For heavier vehicles, the required thickness increases to 130mm. 

Installation of a concrete driveway will usually proceed as follows: 

Choose a cool, overcast day to pour your driveway – don’t proceed if there’s a chance of rain or frost. Very hot days should also be avoided. 

Excavate 200-300mm

Create a base with hardcore of at least 150mm

Cover with fine gravel and level it off

Ensure good compaction with a vibrating plate or roller

Install timber forms along the sides of the drive, with stakes at regular intervals and and at every join between timber forms

Check the elevation to ensure uniform slab height

Lay the concrete

Insert shrinkage joints at least every 5-6m to avoiding cracks forming. You can also cut control joints. These will need to be done with 24 hours of pouring – sooner if the weather is hot. 

Keep vehicles off your drive for at least seven days. If the weather is quite cool, extend this by another 5 days.  

What will a concrete driveway cost? 

Factors that will alter the cost of your concrete driveway include: 

Size – the length and width

The slope – the price increases as the slope does

The appearance – plain concrete is cheapest. Add in colour, exposed aggregate or stencilling and the price will increase. 

To ensure you get an accurate quote from your concreter or can put together an accurate budget, make sure you know all of the above items. 

Many concreting companies have quote calculators on their website, making it quick and easy to get a quote.